Tuesday, 20 July 2021

Practical Sample Works for Beginners ( Second)

 Hello friends ,

Welcome to Vandana creations.

Today we are going to construct some more important projects. These seam styles are used in various garments, that we will be making in the future. So lets start with our today's first assignment "Self Finished edge of Fabric".

  Assignment 8

  Self Finished Edge of Fabric

(Making of Handkerchief) 

Definition : Self Finishing edges of fabric is done, so as to prevent the edges from unraveling and fraying.

  • Take a cotton fabric and prepare a handkerchief of mentioned dimensions:
    Length = 6”
    Width   = 6”
  
  To make self finished edges from all four  sides, we need to add margins for seam fold.

  Steps Of Procedure:
  •  Take a swatch of measure 7.5" * 7.5"

  •  Slightly fold and press the edges of one  side, towards wrong side.  


  • Make a second fold and press by maintaining half inch fold width. You can do the used of draping pins to hold the folds ,if required.
  • Construct seam at the edge of both the adjacent sides. 


  • Repeat the same process with a pair of remaining two sides.
  • Don't forget to secure the seam edges by using back- tack lever.
  • Finally a self edge finished "handkerchief" is ready.


     


    Assignment 9


    Flat Felled Seam

    Definition Flat Felled Seam : Flat felled seam is a seam with great strength, therefore it is mostly used in knitted sports wear.

    Steps Of Procedure:

  •  Take two pieces of fabric with a length of about 7'' * 4"

  • Construct a plain seam by maintaining seam allowance half inch.


  • Invert the piece up side down and press open the seam. 

  • Cut the margin fabric of one side, leaving 1/8th of an inch from the first seam.


  • Now cover the smaller margin by overlapping of the another side allowance and give a neat seam. 

  • Make sure that the even distance should be  maintained from the plain seam line.





  • Finally a flat felled seam is ready.



Assignment 10

Corded seam
 
Definition Corded Seam: This Seam is a decorative seam, that is used to add designing to the garments. In this seam fabric covered with the cording is stitched in two sections of the fabric. The corded seam is applied  in between two sections of garment and is also used as an edge finishing seam.                                             

     Assignment 11
  
    Cordless Piped Seam

Definition Cordless piped Seam: The cordless piped Seam is a type of decorative seam used to enhance the grace of the garment by adding a piped contrast fabric.

Steps Of Procedure:
  • Cut two main swatch samples of 7" * 4".

  • Also cut a straight strip of contrast fabric measuring 7" * 1"



  • Centre fold and press the strip lengthwise.
  • Fold the strip by joining it's lengthwise edges together.
  • Now place the strip on the edge of one of the main swatch along the length 7" by joining edge of piping with the edge of swatch. You can also choose to apply draping pins.



  • Construct a seam maintaining an equal distance, don't forget to secure the edges.

  • Now invert the swatch upside down and place on the other main swatch. You can use draping pins to hold the fabric together.



 

  • Sew upon or a bit inwards from the earlier seam.

 

Assignment 12

Slot seam

Definition Slot seam: Slot seam is a type of decorative seam. This seam is formed by two tucks, that open to another contrast fabric. This seam is generally used on pockets, dresses ,jackets and coats. The seam is a combination of lapped seam.

Steps of Procedure:
  • Choose two pieces of contrast colored swatches.


  • Cut two piece measuring 7'' *3"
  • Cut contrast fabric strip of 7" * 1.5" and overlock it from the edges along the length.


  • Using a stitch regulator increase the stitch length of the machine.
  • Construct a Superimposed Seam/Plain seam with the two alike pieces by using a "Basting seam".
  • Press open the seam allowance to their respective sides.



  • Do not back tack the edges and keep the swatch aside.
  • Now mark a line at the middle of another contrast fabric with the help of marking chalk.
  • Place the marked strip of fabric below the bigger swatch sample in such a way that the marking should align the seam.



.
  • Sew at either side of the seam line with a contrast fabric underneath.
  • The wider the distance you choose to sew from the basted line the bigger will be the exposure of contrast fabric from underneath. But there is a limitation, you can't sew beyond the over  lapping.


  • Now the process is been completed and it is the time to remove the basting, using a seam ripper.




Assignment 13

Bound Seam- (Straight Bound Seam)

Definition Bound Seam: Bound Seam is an edge finishing seam that covers the raw edges of the garment by a strip of another fabric.

Steps Of Procedure:

  • Take a swatch measuring 7" * 5".
  • Cut a straight strip measuring a little more than 7" * 1.5" (The width of the strip my vary depending upon the designing required).
  • Place the strip right side down on the right side of the fabric.
  • Now apply a seam, at not more than quarter centimeter.


  • Fold the strip towards the wrong side of the main swatch and pin along the first seam, by giving a small fold at the edge.
  • Apply a seam from the right side.

Important:


Use of Biased Strip: A biased strip is to be used  to cover the raw circular edges.

Use of Straight Strip (Lengthwise or widthwise grain): A straight strip  is used to cover the straight raw edges of the garment.

 


Wednesday, 7 July 2021

Practical Sample Work For Beginners(First 7 seams)

                                                                  

Hello friends ,

Welcome to Vandana creations

Today we are going to Start with some more important assignments. These assignments are the based of the garments that we will be making in the future. So lets start with our first assignment "Superimposed Seam".

 Assignment 1

 Superimposed seam(Plain Seam)

Definition Superimposed Seam: The superimposed seam is the most common method of seaming in garments manufacturing. This seam is formed by uniformly placing the edge of one piece of material on another. 

 Advantages of Superimposed Seam: The seam gives a finished look to the garment as it is not seen from outside.

Disadvantages: As it is only a single line of stitch, the strength of seam is not that much strong.

Construct a swatch of superimposed Seam

  Steps of procedure:

  • Take a fabric measuring   8” * 7”
  • Cut straight from the middle of the longest  side, thereby making 2  pieces of 4” * 7” 
  • Place one piece evenly on another by joining the right sides together.


  • Pin by leaving half inch from the edge.
  • Apply a seam joining two swatches and removing draping pins  side by side..  

  

     

For better understanding ,please watch the given video.




Assignment 2 

Plain seam with Single stitch

 Definition Plain seam with single stitch: To add strength to a seam, a top seam is given on the plain seam.

Advantages of Plain seam with single seam: This seam is a stronger seam. The top stitching enhances the beauty of the seam.

Steps of Procedure:
  • Construct a superimposed seam as taught  in assignment 1.


  •  Now press fold the whole seam allowance to one side and give a top stitch by maintaining equal distance of half a centimeter.

For more understanding, Please watch the video.




Assignment3

Plain Seam with double stitch

Definition Plain stitch with double stitch: Plain Seam with  double top stitch is very strong seam with a flat feel. The type of seam gives a beautiful appearance.

Steps of procedure
  •  Construct a superimposed (Plain) seam



  •  Press open the seam allowance to both the sides.



  •  Give a neat top stitch on both the sides by maintaining even distance.

For Better understanding ,please watch the video

                                                

 Assignment 4

 LAPPED SEAM

 Definition Lapped Seam :A lapped Seam is a seam formed when one piece of fabric is laid upon another piece of fabric with an overlapping.

Advantages of lapped Seam: A lapped seam is a strong seam with a smooth and flat finish. As the seam is constructed on the right side of the fabric, it give a  beautiful look.

Take a cotton fabric and prepare a “LAPPED SEAM” by below mentioned dimensions:


Steps of procedure: 

  •  Take a fabric measuring 8” * 7”
  •  Cut straight from the middle of the longest side, thereby making 2 swatches of 4” *7”
                                                    

 


  • Fold edge of longest side of one swatch half inch towards backside.
  • Place the folded portion overlapping on plain edge of another swatch and pin firm. 



  • Apply a seam from above the right side and remove pins side by side.



For better understanding ,please watch the given video.


 

Assignment 5

 

Hairline Seam

 Definition Hairline seam: Hairline seam is an enclosed seam. This seam is generally used in collar construction, where the component is inverted and thus gives a neat finish.


Steps of Procedure:

  • Take two swatch samples in a curved shape.
  •  Place one upon another by keeping the right sides together.
  •  Make sure to stitch close to the edge, there by decreasing the seam allowance to about half a centimeter.


  •  Cut the extra seam allowance if required.
For better understanding, do watch the given video






Assignment 6

      FRENCH SEAM

Definition French Seam: A French Seam is a neat seam the encloses seam allowance ,inside a seam thereby finishing the raw edges of fabric. 

Advantages of French Seam: As the edges are enclosed it gives a finished look to the garment thereby preventing it from fraying. It looks beautiful in straight sewing. The seam gives a long life to the garment. 

Disadvantages :The French seam is a bulky seam, thus is not suitable to be stitched on curves, as there it gives an unfinished result. Another disadvantage is the visibility of seam. As the seam adds weight to seam line, thus it is also not compatible for bulky fabrics.

Construct a neat “French Seam 


Steps of procedure:

  • Place the fabric wrong sides together and pin it.
  • Sew along the edges thereby leaving very less seam allowance than taken usually.


  • Press flat the seam.
  • Fold the swatch in such a way ,that the seam allowance should lie in between and the previous stitching line should  locate along the edge of the fabric.
  • Pin fold pieces of fabric if required.
  • Sew the second line of stitching, thereby enclosing the raw edges inside.
  • Press well to give a finish.


To have more clear understanding, do watch the given video.



 Assignment 7  


CALCULATE STITCHING  MACHINE  ( SPI )

Definition SPI calculation: SPI (Stitch Per Inch) refers to the number of stitches formed by a machine in one inch. While referring garment specification SPI plays a vital role in determining the quality parameters therefore it should not be neglected.

SPI calculation process:

  • To measure SPI, take two fabric swatches of 7” * 7”
  •     Place both swatches one upon another and make a seam at all  four edges.
  • Sew the swatch length wise in  different SPI settings .
  • Start by adjusting the SPI regulator at 1 and sew a line. 
  •  Similarly sew a lines on each SPI (grade 1 to 5). 
  •  Now mark 1” distance on each line and count and write the number of stitches present per inch. 


     
That's all in this week's assignments. Next week we will be coming with some more important  and interesting assignments for the beginners. Till then good bye.

 


   










 




 

        

     

 

 

                             

 

                     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Practical Sample Works for Beginners ( Second)

  Hello friends , Welcome to  Vandana creations. Today we are going to construct some more important projects. These seam styles are used in...