Friday, 28 August 2020

Seam Classification(Lesson 5)

 


Hello friends ,

Welcome to Vandana creations.

Friends do you know the difference between a “Stitch” and a “Seam”. Come lets have a brief study about it.

Lesson 5

“Seams Classification”

Stitch : Stitch is a formation of loop in Sewing by the means of inter looping of the threads. In lockstitch sewing machine it is formed by the interlacing of the threads of the needle and of the bobbin case .It is the building block of a seam and finally of a garment. 

Seam :The line made by stitches is called seam .It is a joint made by the help of needle and thread so as to hold two or more fabric layers together. Seam can be made with the help of hand or machine. Various types of seams are used by the technologist during the manufacturing of a garment. So come friends lets have a glance at the various types of seams and their use in garmenting. These are classes of seams on the basis of which these are categorized. Either it is the dart of a blouse or the Pocket finishing there  are a variety of seams which

 play their specific role at a specific position.

Today we are going have a brief study about the various types of Seams used in garmenting. These seams are classified in to categories on the behalf of the role played by them .Different types of stitches  and machines are used to make such seams.

Before moving on to our topic I would like to explain one technical term to you i.e.

Seam allowance: The space between the fabric and the seam edge is called seam allowance.



Seam Classification: 


Seam Class 1 - Superimposed Seam When one fabric is uniformly placed on another fabric and stitching is done is called superimposed seam. This is type of seam is made with two or more fabrics imposed on each other and are joined near an edge using one or more row of stitches. The purpose is to create a load bearing strong seam for garments. Certain fixed seam allowance is assured while creating this seam.

*The sewn edges of the fabric remain in the same side.

*Generally sewn on lock stitch machines.

*There are a huge variety of superimposed seams.

*Mostly used as inside seam of garments.


 Seam Class 2 - Lapped Seam – Lapped seam is a strong seam which protects the fabric edges from fraying. It involves only one stitching operation on industrial sewing machine. This seam is commonly used for making Jeans and other similar garments.

* Sewn edges of the fabric remains in opposite direction to each             other.

* In industries a lapped seam is stitched with 401 chain stitch.

* It is used in manufacturing of Jeans because of it’s strong construction.

 


Seam Class 3 - Bound Seam  – A bound seam is a strong finishing seam made by covering the edge of the fabric with another strip of fabric. This is done by the means of one or more rows of seams. This gives a neat decorative edge to the garment. 

 * Bound seam is made by the attachment of ‘binders’ in industrial Sewing machines.

 * Stitches used: Class 300 Lockstitch and 400 Chain stitch.



Seam Class 4 - Flat Seam – This is a form of stitch in which the two edges of fabric are sewn by placing adjacent to each other instead of overlapping. Seam is called as “Flat Seam” as no overlapping of fabric is done. The two edges of fabric are tied together by the network of thread.

* Such seam  produces a stretchable joint due to the zigzag network of threads involved in stitching.

* This sort of stitching is done by “Chain Stitch” machines.

* The purpose of a seam is to produce a joint where no extra thickness of fabric can be tolerated at the seam.

* Generally used in knitted garments.

* This sort of seam is usually applied on the under garments or on foundation garments.

* Stitches used: Class 600 Chain Stitch or covering Stitch. 


 

Seam Class 5 - Decorative seam /Ornamental Seam – Any type of decoration done  by the means of seams on one or more layers of fabric is called decorative Seam.

* Ornamental Designs are created by the help of these seams.

* A more complicated process in this regard is the piping stitch which produces a form of raised line in a garment .

* It is used to increase the beauty of the garment



 Seam Class 6 - Edge finishing Seam/Neatening – Edge finishing or   neatening involves covering a simple ply of material with stitches

*Serger is the example of edge finishing seam.

*It is done to give a neat finish to the single edge of fabric.

*These seams are applied on the panels of  un-stitched garment so as to secure its edges from fraying.

*Edge finishing seams are applied on the panels of garments during or after stitching garments as trousers, facings and flies





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Seam Class 7 - Attaching of Separate items – As the name suggests this class involves seam that needs another component to attach on the edge of the fabric.

*Such as the attachment of laces, elastic etc. on the fabric edge.

*Multi-needle machine and folders are used to produce the seam.




Seam Class 8 - Single Ply Construction – This seam class consists of the single ply construction of the fabric, whose both the edges are turned inwards in such a way so as to give a neat finish to the garment such as belt loops of a trouser.

*Generally folders are used to turn the fabric in various ways and to feed it to the machine for sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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